Osaka Sumo TournamentGetting tickets:The official sumo website provide information on the various ticket vendors, each with their own system. You'll probably need a Japanese speaker to make the booking for you, otherwise, you can chance it, and turn up on the day and get public gallery tickets.
Getting there:If you take the bullet train to Osaka, you'll get off at Shin-Osaka station.
Warning, JR Rail has "Green Cars", which are not ecologically inspired, but are a secret code for "First Class". From Shin-Osaka, you'll need to change the the underground trains to the red line, take the train to Namba Station (also spelt Nanba Stn), it should be seven stops. Go to Exit 5 (a long walk from where you'll exit the station, but still underground). Near Exit 5, when you emerge at street level, there should be a map next to the traffic lights, get your bearings, and it should be an easy one or two minutes walk. Get drinks and snacks at any convenience store before you go in (you can get drinks and snacks inside, but nearly at double the price).
When:There is a tournament every two months:
- January in Tokyo
- March in Osaka
- May in Tokyo
- July in Nagoya
- September in Tokyo
- November in Fukuoka
It runs from the second Sunday of the month, for 15 days (from Sunday to Sunday). It starts at 8.30am, and finishes at 6pm. The lower ranking divisions start earlier in the day, ending with the top-ranked division including the number 2 Ozeki and number 1 Yokuzuna ranks. If you are in Japan, you can usually find the English language coverage live on TV starting from 4pm, though you might need to use the "language" button on the remote to change the sound channel.
Seating:There's two main types of seating, there's the "box seats", and regular seats.
Box seats are not high up like in opera theatres, but are much closer to the ring. These are expensive, usually beginning at Y36,000. These are not seats, but are Japanese tatami style, you get a cushion and what you might call 'floor space'. Each box has space for four people, and it appears a little tight. You get Japanese tea, sake, and gift sample bag of goodies from local companies (perhaps including Sony, Toshiba, Panasonic, etc...). Box types are Boxes A, Boxes B, and Boxes C, with A the closest and most expensive, and C the least.
Regular seats are just that, gymnasium spectator seats with backs, which are typically small, and close together, and you are further back from the ring. Seating ranges from SS, S, and 'A', with SS being at about Y9,000, and A at about Y3,000. See
the official Sumo Association site for details.
Etiquette:The tournament I attended in Osaka, seemed to show a side of Japan (or Osaka at least), that I'd never seen before. The Japanese people seem to forget their social inhibitions, and seem keen to talk to complete strangers, and in the warmest and most sincere of ways. Boisterousness is of course not warranted, but cheering for your favourite wrestlers are expected.
When you enter and show your tickets, you may get a list of wrestlers showing who is facing who, in English (and perhaps other languages might be available), and a little pamphlet book on sumo and its history. We also got a glossy office folder with pictures of some wrestlers.
Websites:Nihon Sumo Kyokai Official HomepageThe Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium seating layout (for ticketing info).Seating layout (for ticketing info).Winjeel.Com How to photograph Sumo info
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