Winjeel.Com
Back • Home • Up  

Special Message:

Everything comes in cycles: with every downturn; there'll be an upturn.

 

Get these as cards

Buy my art

Get these as prints for your walls

How to take photos: Travel
 
Also see: 'How to use your SLR'. Bookmark with  del.icio.us (look below for others). See the forums to discuss and ask questions.
Basic gear you need:
bulletWhatever you've got (and it doesn't have to be much)
bulletSuggested minimum: A zoom lens, tripod, polariser, Neutral Density filter
The Aim:
bulletTo choose a single subject and show it justice
How:
bulletISO: Best to use iso100 where possible, and maximum iso400 to avoid noise.
bulletDepth of field: This will vary, but I mostly use about F11.
bulletShutter Speeds: For handheld, best to use 1/100 shutter speed as a bare minimum for a 18-70mm lens, but usually 1/125. Though, consider using a monopod with a longer lenses to reduce camera shake / blur. Blur is really annoying as it can depreciate an otherwise great photo. Ideally, on bright sunny days, I would try to use 1/200 for handheld when using my 75-300mm lens, and higher shutter speeds the further the subject is away.
bulletLenses: There are some great (expensive) lenses out there to choose from. Though, for travel, and let's face it, some places you need to hide your wallet and passport, so I use my (cheaper) Konica-Minolta 18-70mm and 75-300mm kit lenses. Other people might prefer a 50mm lens (non-zoom, I would too if I had one), or a single 28 to 300mm zoom. Often, older lenses reduce details and or colour, but they're cheaper to replace, especially after loss or damage. They are also softer on details, so they're good for portraits. I downloaded a really cool bit of software a while ago (called Wega2), and statistically found I mostly shoot at about 55mm.
bulletFlash: Use one to fill in shadows, as you'll mostly be touring in the middle of the day, and so the sun can create some harsh shadows and at some unflattering angles. I just use the built in flash. It does the job (see 101 Tips and Tricks).
bulletProblems: Be sure there's no distractions, or unnecessary junk in the background or interrupting the foreground. Plan it, so everything that you see through the lens is there, because it needs to be. "Keep it clean!"
bulletONE SUBJECT! Most tourist photos are 'boring', as the photographer takes a single photo of EVERYTHING (see below). I look for details, smaller things, or I take a few steps closer and photograph a single subject. Also see 101 tips and tricks.
A touristy photo, with information signs, the subject isn't at an interesting angle, and it looks far from the tranquil Zen we would expect of a Shinto shrine A better photo. As it happens, this place wasn't swarming with tourists, but I just took this angle (among many others) anyway.
bulletOn bright sunny days, filters can help reduce glare and 'burnt out' spots (where there's too much light, that it appears white. See above left). Filters, especially Neutral Density (ND) and polarisers are great for this. Otherwise, try to get the early morning or late afternoon glow; or try on a gentle hazy / overcast day.
bulletFind a feature, then come in close; closer still, and zoom in more, and that's it: isolate it. Also see the DOF article for more help on isolating the subject.
bulletCloudy days are a blessing and a curse. Little Flute (below) was taken on a cloudy day, and so there are no harsh shadows; whereas Horyu-ji temple (below) does. Close ups of human faces in bright light is unattractive, so use a flash to reduce some shadow.

Examples:

Click on these to view them at a larger size

< Taken using Minolta 303si set on Portrait Mode. At Angkor Wat, 2005. Notice there are no distractions. Refer to the Composition article.
< F8, 1/160, iso400; 75-300mm lens at 300mm. Little Flute. An overcast day (notice soft shadows and no harsh bright spots). What I needed though, was a monopod, as this collection was mostly blured because of the distance and the difficulty in holding a zoom steady enough. Also notice the thirds rule being applied; refer to the Composition article.
< F9, 1/125, iso100; 18-70mm lens at 70mm. A park in Kuwana City, Japan. Notice there is still a main subject, though a geisha walking across would have been awesome!
< F5.6, 1/100, iso100; with 18-70mm lens at 18mm, with linear Cokin polariser filter. Horyu-ji, Nara, Japan. A typical touristy photo. Though, notice how the subject is not in the centre, nor was I facing square onto it either. Compared the the 'Little Flute' (above), there are, unfortunately, harsh shadows, but great clouds nonetheless. The harsh shadows normally reduce the details in the darker areas, but these details were picked up with a little Photoshopping.
See Events < See Events for more touristy picture styles
Tainan, Taiwan

Hualien, Taiwan

< Some of my early works. It's embarrassing, but look for any faults you can, and avoid them.
< See here at 101 Tips and Tricks for some ways to get some great photos.

We proudly support:

Home
Up
Living in Asia
Teaching English
Photography
Forums
Community
Sleepless and Bored
Advertise with us
Contact Us

 

 

Like us? Why not visit again: 

Copyright (c) Winjeel.Com 2003 - 2008  Contact Us  Terms & Conditions