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How to take photos: The Most Common Mistakes
 
Also see 'How to use your SLR' articles. Bookmark this with  del.icio.us (more below). Visit our forums to discuss and ask questions.
Basic gear you need:
bulletA pair of eyes (perhaps with glasses)
bulletA good sense of judgement
The Aim:
bulletTo get rid of the junk
bulletLearn to spot the not-so-good photos, so you only keep the cream
How:

We all like to think of ourselves as masters of our art. We might proudly sport our favourite pictures to our friends. They'll support us by saying, 'yeah, that's a great cat picture', but it's actually... Here, learn what to avoid in your photography, and how to spot the junk.

Same image as above, but cropped. Notice that there is not a clean and crisp line around the dolphins; it looks a little blurred.

< Distance Blur. F9, 1/250, iso100, 75-300mm Sigma zoom lens at 225mm. The object was probably 500m away. If you use a long zoom lens, then the tiniest of movement will be exaggerated increasingly according to distance. A long zoom lens used on a portrait model that's relatively close will show little or no blur, but a distant object would show lots. I've seen another photographer suggest for lenses or lens lengths: 200mm lens should use 1/200 sec shutter speed; 300mm lens: 1/300 sec; 500mm: 1/500sec and so on. It's not a hard and fast rule, but helps. Also, a tripod (or at least a monopod) would help a great deal. Also note that some lenses (and some cameras) are more accurate than others at focusing.
< Flash Usage. Often your onboard camera flash gives the wrong shadows, or is an over-kill. Here, it would have been better to use a tripod and the available light, or forget it. Ever wondered why the top level 'pro' cameras don't have on-board flashes built in?
< Vignetting. Notice the dark corners at the top? That's the filters I've stacked on the front of the lens, or the wrong lens hood. It might even be a low quality zoom lens that might be pulled right back. This can also be created by using an aperture of f1.4 or similar on some lenses.
< The subject is out of focus. Make sure the little red square that flashes (to signal the camera is focused and ready) has flashed on the subject, and don't wait, take the picture ASAP. Here, the stones are in focus, but not the cat. Be sure to aim for the eyes.
< Poor post processing (or bad settings within the camera). You can adjust the levels in the Image > Adjust > Levels part of the menu, to retain some good colour. Also see "Basic Post Processing" in PhotoShop Tutorials.
< Noise. (not sound) It's the speckled look that you get in dark pictures or with cheaper cameras. Maybe your camera was set to iso800 or something. If you're using a point-and-shoot, use a flash, and use something more like iso400. Also see here. For a good camera, see "Which Camera?".
< Under exposed. It was quite a cloudy day, not the best of conditions to be photographing in. If the cloud were thinner, or I could use a longer shutter speed (not good for trains), then it might look a little more vibrant; but not much.
< Over exposed. Here, too much light has affected the picture. This could have been reduced by using a polariser or Neutral Density filter. The over exposure occurs when the sensor has received more light than its capacity, and so we get these blow outs, where no significant amount of digital information can recover the detail.
< Poor composition. A touristy photo, with information signs, the subject isn't at an interesting angle, and it looks far from the tranquil Zen we would expect of a Shinto shrine

< Harsh shadows. Yes, a 'fill-in' flash can help reduce them, but avoiding shooting in the midday sun is better.

< Less than perfect. For common photos (like flowers), these days you've got to do more than take an ordinary photo of something pretty. This flower has dirty leaves, chewed petals, an ugly background, we're looking down onto it (a nothing-special angle), and we're not even zoomed in.
< Blur. A zoom lens was used, but on a monopod, so there shouldn't be much blur. However, 1/125 shutter speed was used, and it seems that this wasn't fast enough. Perhaps 1/200 would have been better. (Notice the eyes are not clear or crisp.
< Sky Problems. This is a problem when too much light hits the sensor and the sensor is quickly saturated. It happens on film, but much less so. Use either a lens hood or a polariser to prevent this, when the sun is strong, intense, and on the side, and slightly in front of the camera.
< Sun soaked. Here, the sun is shining into the lens, giving a washed out, sun-dried look. A lens hood could have prevented this.
   
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