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'How to use your SLR' articles.
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Basic gear you need:
Digital SLR camera (for
good quality images)
Studio flash (not an on
camera flash) and reflectors
Props
Food for energy and for
motivation
The
Aim:
To get the subject
(usually person) to stand out
How:
This question
of how to do nude photography has been asked of me a few times, but I hadn't
got round to producing a tutorial on it, mostly because it's not my area of
expertise. But, here's the best advice that I can offer
Settings: Use
iso100, something between
f5.6 to f16, and 1/125 shutter speed. Also, with f11, have your model
further away from the background (usually a wall), so the details of the
wall and other things are more
blurred out, creating a softer look with less distractions.
White Balance: With
the flash, be sure your white
balance is set for the flash you're using. In the examples below, the
studio flash was rated to 5,500K, so the cameras WB was set to this.
Lenses: A prime
lens (non zoom) like a 50mm, 85mm, or 100mm lens would give best image
quality and skin colour reproduction. Often, an older lens is gentler on
skin details, which many women might appreciate more, but the colour tends
to be a little dry.
Light Set Up: Set
up your flash to point from one side, or from above the camera bouncing
off of the ceiling. But don't
use your on-camera flash. Using an on-camera flash creates an unpalatable
dark halo on one side of the subject, and it looks cheap and amateur.
Modifiers: Have a
reflector on the opposite side of the flash to bounce light to gently fill in shadow areas, especially
under the chin and on the 'dark side'. A reflector can be any white item
that can bounce light. I use Styrofoam boards that my new tables and desks
came packaged in for this, and I suppose bedsheets work just as well. Consider experimenting with 'warmer' filters one
or two of the flashes, or maybe on the lens if you're outside.
Quality Issues: Be
sure there's no distractions, or unnecessary junk in the background,
including power sockets, personal affects, and even clothing tags. Plan
it, so everything that you see through the lens is there, because it needs
to be.
Lights: Some
high-end amateurs consider making do with thousands of watts of hardware
store fluorescent lighting, but in my experience, you'll still have
blurred subjects. You really do need to use studio flashes as these
'freeze' the subject, just because of the lower shutter speed and higher
flash speed. I make do with a single 800watt flash and a reflector. It's
the cheapest and most effective set up money can buy. Using 400watts might
possibly be enough,
but getting 1200watts will give you lots more flexibility. See more on
this point in the Mini Studios article.
Advice: This kind
of photography calls on the photographer to be completely respectful to
his or her model. The model is being put in a vulnerable position, as you
know what you will do with the pictures, and the model cannot ever be 100%
sure. Give your model a space to get changed; yes, do offer some privacy.
Also, be sure the space is gently warm and comfortable. This is also
tiring for the model, so keep him or her in good spirits, offer drinks and
snacks, lunch and things. Have the site set up and ready so the model can walk in
and be photographed immediately; waiting is boring, a waste of time and money. Tell your model that you'll do some test shots to
calibrate your equipment for his or her skin tones; adjust things and move
lights and camera around and try different angles. Whilst you're doing
this, your model is relaxed and not feeling
under any pressure, but in the meantime, you're getting the shots you really want.
< F11,
1/125, iso100; 18-70mm lens. 800watt flash. Notice the soft shadows. A
reflector was used to help fill these in.
We
especially recommend this particular book, Master Lighting Guide for
Portrait Photography. It has some great advice and ideas, as well as all
the basic techniques.