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How to take photos:
Rejections & Technical Problems |
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Also see 'How to use your SLR'
and 'Making Money' articles. Bookmark this with
del.icio.us
(others below). Also, go
to our forums to discuss
and ask questions. |
Basic gear you need:
 | A picture viewing and
editing program, preferably Adobe Photoshop (Elements is ok), and... |
 | An honest view of your own
work |
|
The
Aim:
 | Avoid rejections from
microstock and other agencies |
 | Know what some common
technical problems are, so you can avoid submitting work which might
otherwise contain these. |
|
Some technical problems:
 | Noise |
 | Blur |
 | Under exposure |
 | Over exposure |
 | Harsh light / shadows |
 | Contains recognisable
human faces |
|
 | Purple fringing |
 | No artistic merit |
 | Commonly submitted |
 | Contains copyrighted
images or logos |
 | There's more, but
these are what will be covered here |
|
All stock agencies have
their own policies, standards levels, and filtering procedures that their
Image Inspectors use, so some images will be rejected by some, but accepted
by others. The good thing is that your fans won't see 'cookie-cutter' portfolios, there'll be
some variety.
Interestingly,
Crestock, has a best and worst photo of
the day. It might be worth checking these out
for a while. Their Image Inspectors, like
iStock's, inform
you precisely as to why your image was rejected, which is really useful for
learning. |
|
Examples: Click on
these to view them at a larger size

 |
Noise
<
Temple Bell. F5.6, 1/200, iso800 (never submitted). You'll notice small
coloured specks, this is 'noise'. Usually, this occurs in darker areas,
where there isn't enough light information for your camera's light
sensor. This is especially common using high iso's. I try to use iso100
where possible to avoid this. You can usually 'smooth' this over with
the blur tool. Using some specialty programs like 'Noise Magic', could
actually create some unwanted artifacts. So, accept that some photos can
be irretrievable.
< Buddha at iso3200. Even
cropped at only 50%, the noise (coloured speckles) is very obvious. This
picture has no commercial value. In this low light situation, you need
permission to use a tripod in this temple, and to use a very slow
shutter speed. Probably, a film camera can do a better job of it. |
 |
Jaggies / Jaggered edges
< This occurs from poor post
processing. This is also called jpeg artifacts to some. Never re-save
jpegs, keep the original RAW or psd (PhotoShop document) files, edit
them, then save in jpeg. Also, when you save, save at maximum (100%)
quality to create the maximum file size possible for maximum quality
printing. |

 |
Blur
< Baby Singer. F11, 1/125,
iso100; 18-70mm lens. 800watt flash. The problem here is in post
processing. What happened was the original image was scaled down, and
then scaled up again. The original image itself was fine, but not this
one. Also, in the second half, you'll see some junk there, that ought
not be there; it'd be rejected because of 'a lack of artistic merit'.
< Mountain Cable Car.
F4.5, 1/125, iso200; 75-300mm lens at 75mm, monopod used. Really, a
proper tripod should've been used, especially to steady that long heavy
lens. Subsequently, I didn't bother submitting this one.
(Also see:
Shutter
Speeds) |
 |
Bokeh / Blur Problems
< Nagoya Castle. F6.3,
1/125, iso100, polariser used, handheld. Here, the issue could be for
any one (or more) of these problems. (1) difficulty focusing at distance
with filters on (polariser used); (2) Being handheld, should have used a
higher shutter speed or tripod; (3) Using a standard (not high
quality) lens, (see
wikipedia
for bokeh). |
 |
Under / Over Exposure
<
Train in snow. F13, 1/125, iso200, 75-300 lens at 135mm (never
submitted). This appears a little dark, and a little dry of colour.
There does need to be a little vibrancy. Also, you can go the other way
and be over exposed. |

 |
Harsh
Light and Shadows
< Monks at noon. F5.6,
1/320, iso400, 75-300mm lens at 230mm. One of my favourite temple-people
pictures, and it cannot be used. Just looking at the legs is a clear
reason why: 'blown-out highlights'. There are no features, no details,
no textures or anything. What has happened here is that there was so
much light information that flooded the digital sensor, that it went off
the charts, and so it only shows a white patch
Other reasons why it cannot be used is the noise on the legs of the guy
in blue (see close up cropped at 100%, iso400 was used). If the bright
pavement in the foreground were cropped out, making it look better, the
image would then be too small for acceptance. |
 |
Contains Recognisable human
faces
< Little Flute. F8, 1/160,
iso400; 75-300mm lens at 300mm (never submitted). All Royalty Free (RF)
images require a Model Release (MR) (see the bottom of this page for
more
info). ANY image that contains a face simply must have an MR. So,
most images on microstock libraries are posed, planned, and prepared.
Rights Managed (RM) images, mostly don't need MRs, but would sell better, or
fetch higher prices where an MR was included. |

 |
Purple Fringing
< Rice Planting. F6.3,
1/320, iso100, 75-300mm lens at 300mm. If you click on the first image,
you'll see it looks fine, but the second image shows a portion of the
same image, cropped at 100%, and the arrows shows the areas of concern.
At first, I thought this was purple paint, because it was so strong,
though it was rejected as 'purple fringing', which did surprise me. No
filters were used, and I regretted forgetting my polariser and ND
filters, which might have reduced or prevented this. Just the same,
wikipedia has a good article on
purple fringing
here. |
 |
No Artistic Merit
< Daffodils. It's hard to
give a precise definition for this, but essentially, it's anything that
looks dodgy, weird, or just not right. This is also a catch all term for
it possibly not having any 'stock' value, as in, it'd only be a waste of
space on a microstock library, advertising agencies, website designers
and such would have no use for it. This daffodil picture wasn't even
submitted. |
 |
Commonly Submitted
< Plum Flowers. F11, 1/160,
iso100, 18-70mm at 70mm. In this game, you really, really need to be
original. Most stock agencies have more flower and pet pictures than
they have toilet paper. Accepting anymore is like winning two life
time's supply of toilet paper! Unless you're exceptionally
good at flower or pet photography, don't even bother. |

 |
Contains copyrighted images
or logos
<
JR (Japan Rail) F13, 1/125, iso200, 75-300mm at 300mm (never submitted).
This is a BIG no-no. Never attempt to sell Royalty Free (RF) images that
contain either of these. The end user (buyer) wants to use it with no
legal restrictions. So including company names and trademarks are out.
Also, note that certain buildings and products have a copyright on them, that
includes Ferraris, the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the iPod and others. You
need, not a Model Release, but a Property Release (PR) to be able to
have the right to sell an image RF that contain these and others.
<
Train in snow. F13, 1/125, iso200, 75-300 lens at 135mm (never
submitted). This train has had the PhotoShop clone stamp tool attack the
logo, so, apart from it being underexposed, it's acceptable. |
 |
Some
Microstock agencies (Royalty Free Sales)
Both of these agencies I
know are reliable and exceptionally professional.
iStock
is my favourite. They are strong on the technical
aspects of photography, and only reject images for good reasons (perhaps
a higher rejection rate would do them good). However, you maintaining a low
rejection rate with them will benefit you in the long run |
 |
Crestock is the new kid on
the block, but still reliable. They are strong on the artistic aspects
of photography. Currently, they aren't concerned about any such thing as
a rejection rate. |
| |
Stock Agencies:
Rights Managed
I'm no longer updating or
adding images to RF microstock agencies, mostly because time and
equipment is expensive, and the remuneration is insufficient. So, like
all self-respecting photographers, I'm (now) in Rights Managed (RM),
where I don't work for peanuts, anymore. Though, RM demands higher
quality and skill; I'm doing it. |

Also see
'How to use your SLR'
for more help. Ask questions at the
forums. |
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