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Film vs. Digital II: In Black & White
This is a comparison between 35mm film and an APS-C digital sensor. This test uses 35mm (film) SLR Seagull DF-2ETM with Ilford Delta 100 (100iso), and the Sony A200.

What's this about?

Have we been sucked into the marketing hype? Have we been like sheep and followed the crowd? Or are images made by digital means as good as film, or better? I'm a bit pragmatic about some things, and so below, you'll see why I think it's good to be so.

To be fair, Ilford (spelt ilford) was founded in 1879, so with a long time to develop their product, one would expect the film to be significantly better. So, of course the first generation of digital cameras would be shoddy, but with some improvements in the second and third generations. The digital camera being tested here is of the third generation, made by Sony. The Konica Minolta company virtually dumped their SLR camera division on Sony, so today we may have Sony camera bodies, but have Minolta lenses in our kits. In my opinion, the former Minolta engineers under the Sony badge have done a fantastic job of their succeeding cameras, as they have a pedigree going back to 1928 when the Minolta company was first formed. Minolta had led the way with many innovations that companies like Canon and Nikon had later followed (eg: Auto focus, detachable lenses, and others).

A little history about the film camera to be used. The Seagull (company founded in Shanghai, in 1958) is known for its TLR, and large format cameras, though this 35mm manual camera, was produced under licence from Minolta by Seagull in the 1990's apparently based on the Minolta X-700. Apparently, Seagull still produces (Minolta MD) manual cameras today.

 

1.

2.

The Seagull DF-2ETM

(Minolta MD, 35mm film format)

The Sony A200

(Minolta AF, APS-C format sensor)

The lenses

Below are details of the lenses used. The lenses are an important factor in considering image quality.

3. 4. 5.
3. Seagull's 50mm 1.8 (Minolta MD) lens, with Cokin P003. 4. Sony A200 with Minolta (AF) 50mm 1.4 (35mm equivalent to 75mm focal length) 5. Cokin P003 Red filter

The test

For the test, a Cokin red filter was used, as this blocks certain wave lengths of light, with on black and white film, darkens the sky whilst making the clouds really stand out. It is thought that this is the hallmark of black and white photography: the ability to use various filters to produce various effects. 6.

6. A Cokin P003 red filter held up in front of a camera showing cirrocumulus clouds.

Seagull with Ilford Delta 100 (black & white)

7. 8. 9.
7. From Seagull, 50mm 1.8: F2.8, 1/500, 100iso, with Cokin Red P003. These were reportedly scanned with SP-2000. This is prior to LightRoom processing 8. Same image with Contrast, Lights, and Darks adjusted in LightRoom. Notice some green-turquoise hue at full size; the image was scanned and saved in RGB. 9. Same image at full size (1840x1232px, 576kb). Notice some grain and dust specs. In this case, the grain probably adds some charm.

Sony A200 with colour settings on B&W and processing in LightRoom

10. 11. 12.

10. Sony A200, 50mm 1.4, f2.8, 1/500, 100iso, with Cokin Red P003 filter, prior to processing.

11. Same image with 100% desaturation

12. Same image with desaturation and contrast increased 100%

Other Samples

13. 14. 15.
13. Sony A200 in AdobeRGB (colour, no red filter), prior to processing. 14. Same (colour) image with 100% desaturation. 15. Same (colour) image with 100% desaturation, and 100% contrast increase.
16. 17. 18.
16. Seagull, 50mm, with Ilford Delta100, with Cokin Red P003. 17. Seagull, 50mm, with Ilford Delta100, with Cokin Red P003. 17. Seagull, 50mm, with Ilford Delta100, with Cokin Red P003.

 

Comments

Conditions on the day: This day was bright and sunny. It was at about 5pm when the light is the best, and with some light scattering of cloud which did not block the sun's light on the subjects.

File sizes: Since fine grain quality is not the emphasis of this test, file sizes were kept manageably small, so many internet uses would not be disadvantaged. However, when viewed at a larger size (picture 9) grain is noticeable, even at 1840x1234px.

Settings: The Sony A200 colour settings were set to 'B&W', and White Balance was set to 'Sunny'. The Sony A200 camera produced RAW (ARW) and these were imported into LightRoom v2.4. Looking at the camera screen we see that they are indeed black and white, but LightRoom still extracts the embedded colour information from these, hence the bright red picture above. Film: The SP-2000 scanner used for the black and white film, here in Japan, still used RGB in scanning, and when viewing the histograms in LightRoom, some Reds, Blues, and Greens were not overlapping, perhaps creating a slight colour hue. No desaturation was applied, but was tested. This resulted in a very slight and subtle sepia-ish hue.

Post processing: All these files were not altered except for adding copyright information and protection, otherwise they were where specified. All files were exported as jpegs in AdobeRGB colour space, 8bit, 300ppi, and at 100% quality. The files from the Sony A200 needed to have processing into black and white by desaturating (see Settings section, above). Desaturation was chosen as it's the simplest means of converting to black and white that most people can do. It should be noted that there are better ways to convert colour digital images to black and white. Film: Only contrast, Lights, and Darks were adjusted, as this would be the normal means of processing in the dark room with projectors and chemicals.

Quantity of images taken: With no surprise at all, digital seemed versatile. Why? I am in the habit of shooting experimental shots, looking at the back, and adjusting settings, and trying again. However, I find I don't experiment with film and I used digital to take 'proof shots' anyway. With film, I aim to get it just right, then I move on and look for a different composition.

Money Talks: Also, taking one digital photo cost me so little in storage space, that it comes out at perhaps 1/100th of a cent per megabyte. Compare that to buying a roll of film, having it developed, scanned, and put onto CD (prints not included, as print costs are the same, anyway). This cost me ¥1,200. Interestingly, I worked out for colour film, for me to buy a roll, have it processed, and scanned onto CD, and repeat this about 270 times, that cost would equal the price of a new Sony A900 (the current pro-level camera) (see here). In contrast, doing this with black and white, 250 films, processes, and scannings equal one Sony A900.

Feedback: I am in the habit of taking a photo and then looking at the back of the camera to see the results, which is a really annoying habit with a film camera. I handed the roll of film in at the store on the 30th Aug, seven days after the shoot, and it was available at the store on the 11th Sept.

Flexibility: The most crucial thing was being able to change iso settings easily. In a studio, where you only use 100iso, this makes no difference, but for travel, and other outdoor use, where conditions can vary, the flexibility of digital wins hands down. On top of that, the quality of digital iso in low-light / high iso conditions is at such a state that it is far better to shoot iso1600 on digital than to use iso800 film, I feel.

Quality Controls: This being the main purpose of enquiry. When using a red filter on black and white film, you get nice white puffy clouds. When attempting to do the same on digital, you have very little contrast and a greatly compromised picture. Even if you didn't use a red filter and shot colour, then converted it in PhotoShop or LightRoom afterwards, it is still artificial. To me, black and white film is the genuine product and cannot be replicated in the digital format.

Verdict: For reasons stated in Quality Controls (above), which is usually the main concern of any photographer, the black and white film wins, with the digital looking like it can only fake black and white.

A Wish: It would be great if they made removable sensors in digital cameras, so that we can not only upgrade in mega pixels, but also have the ability to insert true and proper black and white sensors, as it's assumed that these would behave as black and white film does.

Later other sample images will be added showing the effects of other filters, especially my favourite portrait filter: yellow-green.

     

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